chanterelle duxelles turnovers

11 Aug

chanterelle duxelles turnovers

It’s been so long since I used my DSLR camera that it took me two days to find the USB cord to connect it to my computer for these photos. Since I last used the camera, I’ve packed up all my things, moved house, unpacked some of my things, been across the country and back, and put in a lot of hours at my job. I’ve also been falling less and less on my bike, and even competed in a 12-hour bike race last weekend, fighting a nasty case of strep throat to put in many miles on the bike, all the while also fighting just to stand up and stay awake.

Thankfully this weekend, all are healthy in my household, and we’re tucking away pound upon pound of freshly-foraged chanterelle mushrooms. Here in the Northeast, it’s the perfect year for these orangey gems, as the rain has been incessant for most of the summer. Summer? What’s that? I find myself wondering, as week after week cool temps reign, and precipitation cascades over my head and the tops of the trees at work.

Thank goodness for this delicious bounty that the forest provides. Every week it’s something new to admire and enjoy. This week, chanterelles.

chanterelles

If you want to forage for chanterelles, beware of lookalikes, including false chanterelles and jack o’lanterns. The mushrooms you want to pick will have a solid stem, an apricot aroma, and wrinkly false gills. I find that they grow well under forest cover in mossy areas near compacted sites, such as trails and roads. I find them in fir stands, as well as stands with a hardwood component. There are plenty of online resources for learning chanterelle identification, as well as finding recipe inspiration.

To give you a few ideas, since chanterelles have appeared up here, we’ve made a chanterelle + beef stew, a chanterelle omelette, chanterelle, onion + fresh tomato pizza, and what you see here, Chanterelle Duxelles Turnovers.

Duxelles. Have you been so lucky to have enjoyed this before?

Duxelles is perhaps my favorite recipe that my mum has passed along to me. A mushroom spread or paste, depending on what you add to the mixture (cream/no cream), duxelles is an absolute smash hit when spread on crackers, and creates just about the best dinner party appetizer ever. It was one of the first things that my boyfriend and I cooked together nearly three years ago. Awwww. And it is just so delicious, those of you who are mushroom-inclined will love it.

duxelles

I upped the duxelles a notch here by pairing it with creamy goat cheese, and wrapping it up in phyllo dough parcels. Once baked, these turnovers are crispy, crunchy, juicy, and overflowing with the goodness of wild mushrooms. If you don’t have access to chanterelles, whether foraged in the woods, at the farmer’s market, or the grocery store, use any kind of mushroom for duxelles. Oysters and shiitake work very nicely as well, as do everyday button mushrooms. I feel like when it comes to mushrooms, you can’t go wrong.

Chanterelle Duxelles Turnovers

For the duxelles:

Makes ~2 c.

6 c. chanterelles mushrooms, chopped fine or minced in a food processor
1 stick (8 tbsp) butter
1 large shallot (1/2 c.), finely chopped
5 scallions, finely chopped
Heavy cream, if desired
2 tbsp flatleaf parsley, finely chopped
2 tbsp chives, finely cut
Salt and pepper to taste

This could be called finelychoppedelles rather than duxelles, and it would make sense, no? Make sure to squeeze your mushrooms well before or after chopping, to extract as much juice as possible.

In a large skillet, heat butter over medium heat. Before the foam subsides, stir in the shallots and scallions, and cook until soft. Add mushrooms, and cook for 10-15 minutes. When cooking wild-foraged mushrooms, make sure they are well cooked – any sickness you might feel from eating wild mushrooms is more often due to bacteria on the mushrooms than the mushrooms themselves. In my mum’s words, cook until the mixture is inspissated, and on the point of browning. If inspissated isn’t in your vocabulary, it means thickened or congealed.  Depending on how much liquid is left in your mushrooms, though, the chanterelles may not thicken as much as other mushroom varieties might. If you’d like, add a few splashes of heavy cream to work on that inspissation.

Remove from heat, and mix in parsley and chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let cool.

For the turnovers:

1 rolled sheath of phyllo dough, or phyllo cups if you’d prefer, thawed
1 recipe duxelles, above
1 package goat cheese (I used a mild, creamy cheese)

Unroll phyllo dough, and cut into whatever size you’d like to use. You have a few options: you can make rectangular-shaped parcels, as seen here, you can create large triangular turnovers (which I recommend because they are extra stuffed with goodness), or you can make/use phyllo cups and bake in muffin tins.

Using three or four sheets of dough, fill with 1-4 tbsp of filling, depending on the size of the parcel you’re making. Top with 1 tsp goat cheese per tbsp of filling. Wrap up as desired, whether rectangularly or triangularly, and set on a baking stone or other prepared baking sheet. Spray with baking spray to achieve a golden brown crisp once baked. Repeat with remaining filling and sheets of phyllo.

Bake at 350 F for 25-35 minutes, depending on the size of your turnovers. Remove from oven, and let cool slightly before serving.

chanterelle duxelles turnovers

This non-summer has been passing by much too quickly. Will my tomatoes ripen before we get a frost? Not sure. But I’ve been loving every minute that this season has to offer.

I’ve been overseeing road construction and a large harvesting operation, I’ve walked down sweet and quiet wooded trails, and I’ve done a fair amount of harvesting myself. Summer is beautiful. Bring on an equally lovely fall.

constructiondelimbertrailpile o mushrooms
A day’s harvest of many pounds of chanterelles, one pound of king boletes (porcini), and a solitary puffball.

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24 Responses to “chanterelle duxelles turnovers”

  1. Mum 2013/08/11 at 17:08 #

    Oh my, oh my, ain’t you got fun!! Stunningly beautiful photos…they just look like they are meant to be cooked and savored! I wish that you were cooking some for me…mmmmmmgood….

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 08:52 #

      Thanks Mum! Wish I could be cooking some for you too, because day after day, I keep devouring these beauties! I have more than enough to share:)

  2. hungryandfrozen 2013/08/12 at 07:05 #

    why oh why have I never made duxelles before? Sounds utterly wonderful. (Just realised I rhyme with the my oh my of the above comment. Hee.)

    Glad to hear about the strep-fighting and the good bike riding!

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 08:56 #

      Hi oh hi!

      Duxelles seems like the perfect savory counterpart to the enticing Americana desserts that you make – I don’t know why, but it seems very 60s, a sort of trying-to-be-exotic-because-it-sounds-French-and-Mastering-the-art-of-French-Cooking-just-came-out-so-lets-be-European-tonight type of food. Yeah?

  3. movita beaucoup 2013/08/12 at 07:46 #

    I’m exhausted from reading this post, and will now nap to recover. I haven’t been on a bike since I was a kid – and can’t imagine racing one! You’re a beast.

    Those turnovers sound perfect for a vegetarian friend of mine, who also happens to be an all-round mushroom lover. Maybe I’ll make some for her. She doesn’t bike either…

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 08:58 #

      I hope you’ve woken up from your nap by now. I hope you’ve recovoured.

      Get on a bike already! Biking is the best.

  4. Amy (Savory Moments) 2013/08/12 at 07:50 #

    Oh my – these looks awesome! My husband foraged some chanterelles a few weeks ago. They are so delicious! I’ll have to remember this dish for next time her brings some home.

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:00 #

      Yeah for foraged chanterelles! How did you eat yours?

  5. Mary at n00bcakes 2013/08/12 at 09:08 #

    Oh man, mushrooms + goat cheese? I *literally* can’t think of anything more delicious right now. I look forward to making these, even if I end up making them with a significantly less-awesome (and significantly more store-bought) version of mushrooms.

    I’m curious – having never actually foraged for food myself (outside of an occasional sassafras root back when I was a kid), when you say it’s “a day’s harvest”, what exactly does that mean? Is that a literal 8 hour day foraging? Do tell!

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:06 #

      I am so hungry, it sounds pretty delicious to me too right now. And store-bought mushrooms? Still awfully tasty.

      Ah! Man, I dream of what an 8-hour foraging haul would look like! No, a day’s harvest for me means what I come across while working, and allow myself to stop to pick. So maybe 15 minutes total?

  6. Brianne 2013/08/12 at 12:53 #

    Hoooooooly cow. I so admire your foraging skills! And your wicked biking skills! Chanterelles galore, huh? This recipe sounds absolutely splendid, much unlike these last two rainy months have been. August has been pretty nice in these parts. One of my tomato plants grew to 5 feet tall and promptly collapsed on itself. It’s supported by a cage, but I hope my Brandywines will make it!

    Why is inspissation a cooking term? Sounds like someone’s peeing on something to me. Nobody wants that in their duxelles!

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:08 #

      Chanterelles galore!

      My tomato plants are like 1.5 feet tall. But they do finally have ripening tomatoes on them!! It’s awfully exciting, it’s just been so cold up here, and everything is sort of sad. My beets and chard never grew, neither did my basil or cilantro. They’re all permanently stuck at a 1-inch height.

      Inspissation sounds nasty, agreed. Keep your pee out of my food, please!

  7. Hannah 2013/08/12 at 15:29 #

    You are my real-life Laura Ingalls Wilder/Bush Tucker Man and I adore you for it. You amaze me completely. xo

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:09 #

      Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww thanks! xo

      • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:10 #

        Looks like I went off the page with that one:)

  8. Amy 2013/08/13 at 09:29 #

    Sounds like you’ve been quite the busy bee! Glad you’re feeling better. Wow, this recipe looks amazing!!! I love mushrooms but have never made a duxelle. Looks like it’s about time i did!

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:19 #

      Thanks Amy! Give duxelles a try, I think you’ll adore it. I especially love it on this Rice Thin/Almond Thin crackers.

  9. Keren 2013/08/13 at 19:46 #

    Stunning, stunning photos as always. So much beauty and fresh air and calm (giant road building machines aside). Plus, you’ve done the impossible and made mushrooms look delicious. I’m pretty sure I’d chow down on one of those turnovers if you put it in front of me and didn’t tell me what was in it.

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 09:22 #

      Thank you Keren, so glad I can make the unappealing look tasty to you:)

      Giant road building machines can be peaceful I suppose, especially on Fridays when the crews have gone home and the machines stand motionless, like oversized forest sentinels.

  10. leaf (the indolent cook) 2013/08/14 at 10:06 #

    Oh my gosh I am SO jealous. I’ve bought chanterelles before and love them ever so much, but they are incredibly expensive over here. And there you are foraging POUNDS of that stuff! Sigh.

    • emma 2013/08/14 at 18:17 #

      Aren’t they wonderful? I am a huuuuuuuuge fan. If people could turn into the food they eat most, I would turn into a plump but shapely mushroom. Or maybe a pat of butter.

  11. El 2013/08/15 at 21:41 #

    What an exquisite dish. Love the addition of goat cheese!

  12. shannon 2013/08/20 at 06:36 #

    seriously, were i ever to forage for mushrooms, i’m coming to you for information; i would have no idea what to do otherwise. and this….THIS looks like something i’m obviously going to make, as i am mushroom-inclined. the goat cheese in there? genius, as that is one of my favorite pairings.

  13. erin @ yummy supper 2013/08/27 at 12:11 #

    Emma, your chanterelles are total stunners. Can you feel our green envy from way out west!!!
    And, I have to say… that last forest photo slays me. The way you captured the light…
    xoxo
    E

And now I'd like to pass the mic / So you c'mon and do anything you like ...aka, Leave your reply.

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