book ‘em, danno: aloha from honolulu + onopops

10 Nov

A week’s vacation in Hawaiʻi sounds like a dream to most, especially those in the northern hemisphere preparing themselves for the cold chills of winter. And although I traveled to Honolulu, on the island of Oʻahu, for a forestry conference, my brief foray into the tropics was not without its adventures, both culinary and tourist-ary.

During the twelve hours of flying and six hours of layovers that it took to get there, I contemplated all of the Spam delights that I anticipated trying. Did you know that Hawaiʻi consumes the most Spam per capita in the US? I did. And indeed, I tracked it down, along with much more than I hope to share with you.

In Hawaiʻi, palm trees grow inside of buildings. The photo at the top right is inside of the Hawaii Convention Center, where my conference was held.  If you are in Honolulu and trying to find this place, try looking left of the dingy canal filled with trash, and right of the Naked Lady XXX joints. I don’t mean to downplay the place; rather, it is important to acknowledge that the city has a dingy side to it. A side that either augments or takes away from the scenery, depending on your viewpoint.

The graffiti is prolific, and many of the buildings look as if a breath of wind would knock them down. On the other side of that trash-filled canal, skyrising hotels populate Waikiki, creating distinctly equal visual pollution. And yet there is such stark beauty in the polluted, traffic-laden streets. A diverse populace and burgeoning tourist industry bring terrific food options and cushy comforts to an excited, undemanding tourist such as myself. Honolulu will leave you exhausted (or is that just the jet lag?), but it will also leave you refreshed.

For instance, people (or maybe just tourists, such as myself) eat grilled bananas for breakfast, on top of the rest of their meal. How refreshing is that?

Even more refreshing than grilled bananas, dragon boats, Spam treats and palm trees? Fresh and organic local produce and products.

When in Honolulu, there is nowhere better to turn than the Ala Moana Farmers’ Market, held on Saturday mornings on the 2nd level of the downtown mall’s parking lot. Above the traffic and clutter, this open air market finds tourist and locals mingling, vying for a savory crêpe, grabbing a still-warm garlic baguette, contemplating the art of poi-making, or trying very foreign-looking fruits.

Have a hankering for some ahi tuna? Find it fresh or smoked at the market. Interested in something a little different? Try the abiu fruit (from the Puteria caimito tree), shown at the top left. It was described as tasting like caramel, pineapple and mango, and although we found the custard-textured fruit to be slightly reminiscent of feet, it was still pretty tasty.

If neither fish nor fruit are to your liking, perhaps you would consider giving sea pickles a try (below, top right). Marine AgriFuture is a three year-old company out of Kahuku on Oʻahu’s North Shore, that sells hydroponically-grown sea asparagus and red ogo (seaweed).

While at the market, I picked up a few ripe avocados, a mango, one of the abiu fruits shown above, several grapefruit, and my first pitahaya – or dragon fruit – since my 2007 visit to Barcelona.

If I had had more time on Oʻahu, I would have grabbed a few fresh nutmeg fruits (below, top right), and experimented with the rinds, which can be pickled or ground into drinks, and the outer spice-mace, which I have never had before. I also would have considered trying some longan fruit (below, center) from the Dimocarpus longan tree, which are sweet and juicy and reminiscent of lychees. Given that lychees have not yet impressed me, I find it acceptable that I skipped the longan fruit this time around.

I was most excited about the farmer’s market because I was looking forward to checking out the bean-to-bar operation known as Madre Chocolate. Unfortunately they weren’t at the market this past Saturday, but as I visited their shop several days later, this didn’t pose a problem. Look for an upcoming post on Madre and their fantastic chocolate.

Luckily, there was one shop at the market that could give Madre a run for their money: OnoPops. I can’t even begin to express my enthusiasm for this paleta, or ice pop, stand. As it was early in the morning and I was still a bit tired aka lame, I made the foolish decision of only ordering one paleta, the Crackseed Lemon Peel. My fellow crêpe-savorer-in-crime ordered the Kombucha Pumpkin, which was equally delicious, but very different.

Before I get too deep into the intricacies of the OnoPop, let me introduce you. Meet OnoPops, the kind OnoPops sella-fella and seller-lady (who is modeling one of their t-shirts), and several of their flavor flavs of the day.

The folks behind OnoPops have created over 60 flavors, with 25 to 35 options available at any one time. Half of their menu consists of sorbet water-based pops which are sweetened with raw cane sugar and made with local farm-to-table fruit, such as the Crackseed Lemon Peel paleta I enjoyed. The other half are dairy-based ice cream-styled pops, such as the Kombucha Pumpkin (which had caramel in it, and was some kind of wonderful).

The OnoPops motto is cool in itself: “If it’s not local it’s organic and if it’s not organic, it’s local.” And the flavors? Creative, amazing, take-your-breath-away delicious-sounding. I can’t help but list some of the flavors to tempt your tastebuds: Pickled Green Mango, Avocado Honey Lime, Starfruit Lemongrass, Salted Watermelon Cream, Kula Strawberry Maui Goat Cheese, and Surinam Cherry Clove are but a few of the many options available from OnoPops. Oh, how I regret only trying one pop – have I mentioned the best part, that they were only $3 each?

Given that I was crazy about these sweet treats, I asked Josh at OnoPops for some words of wisdom regarding the mystery that is paleta production. Thankfully, he was willing to share recommendations on how to make homemade ice pops turn out (nearly) as good as those sold from his company’s vintage Brazilian ice cream cart.

So take out your notepads, and scribble as fast as you can before your paleta melts all over your hands, arms, and part of your leg – as my Crackseed Lemon Peel pop did when I stopped to admire all of the other fresh flavors !

Making Sorbet-Style and Dairy-Based Ice Pops

From Josh @ OnoPops:

For Water-Based Paletas

The traditional paleta ratio is 3:2:1 — 3 parts fruit : two parts water : one part sugar.  That formula works perfectly for citrus; with sweeter fruits we take the sugar down even more than that (paletas arise out of the agua fresca tradition, and a trip to a good taqueria for agua fresca will show you the Mexican sweet tooth is fierce), down to 3:1 (for sweet but still acidic fruits like oranges and surinam cherries) or even 6:1 (for mangos, pineapples, watermelons).

Puree the fruit and strain as necessary.  That’s a big question mark — mangos and pineapples we don’t strain at all, and their pulp aids in making fantastic frozen textures.  But most things have some seeds or pith you want to get rid of, though you want to save some pulp for texture, so use a coarse chinois or similiar coarse strainer to achieve that.

Make simple syrups out of the best raw/organic sugar you can get.  A simple syrup has to boil completely to insure there will be no reverse crystallization in freezing.  Dilute your fruit base with the appropriate amount of the right concentration syrup for the fruit’s particular sweetness and acidity levels.  Example: Meyer lemon juice gets equal parts 2:1 syrup.  Mangos get a 4:3 ratio of 6:1 syrup if they are really ripe and sweet, equal portions of 6:1 if they are less sweet.  This is where trial and error comes in [note: but isn't that what makes baking, cooking, and making ice pops fun?].

If you have a home ice cream maker, spin your base to a soft serve consistency before freezing it in your molds.

For Dairy-Based Ice Pops

If you are making a chocolate pop, start by making a ganache of a good chocolate and local cream, then dilute it with whole milk and heavy syrup (1:2). 

You may infuse the cream you use to make the ganache with any number of spices and botanicals.  For our Dark Chocolate Chinese 5 Spice we dilute 14 quarts of ganache with 4 quarts of milk and 1 quart heavy syrup [note 2: any home cooks that begins with 14 quarts of ganache has my approval - and my asking for their home address so that I can come visit].  For our Mexican Milk Chocolate we dilute 8 quarts ganache with 12 quarts of milk and 3 quarts of heavy syrup.  That gives a good range for your readers to play with.  Do not spin these bases in your ice cream maker; their cream content prefers to be just chilled, then dropped into molds and frozen hard [note 3: similar to David Lebovitz's no-churn custard-based ice cream recipes].

OnoPops

See their list of for-sale locations here, or contact them:

808.354.2949 / onopops@gmail.com

Also check them out on facebook and twitter.

One last tidbit about OnoPops to make me, and all Pacific Islanders jealous: they have featured straight Spam pops, as well as saimin pops – saimin being a Hawaiian soup with multiple additions such as kamaboko (yum),  char siu, Spam, and Portuguese sausage. If only it were easier to travel 5100+ miles just for a few ice pops.

 

Ala Moana Farmers’ Market

Located at the Ala Moana Center, upper deck by Sears, corner of Piikoi & Ala Moana Blvd.
1450 Ala Moana Blvd
Honolulu, HI 96814

Hours:
Saturdays 9h00-13h00

Find them on facebook and twitter, or much better, in person.

Coming up next time: Scenic vistas of Oʻahu that make your palms sweat and your heart race!

Oh, and if you happen to be in Honolulu, say hello to Santa for me. Hopefully he has reclaimed the use of his legs by now, and is mobile once again.

32 Responses to “book ‘em, danno: aloha from honolulu + onopops”

  1. strubshank 2011/11/10 at 19:33 #

    thanks for your kokua

  2. Brianne 2011/11/10 at 20:10 #

    God, that looks so amazing. All of it. Even the forestry conference part. Can’t wait to see the scenery shots! I’ve never tried lychees, but I would love to. Same for dragon fruit and mace! Yum. Thanks for the paleta tips! They were so in last summer, and you know how I feel about food trends…maybe I can whip up a batch now, for irony’s sake. In a wintery flavor even, like cranberry or pumpkin! Whoa. Brain freeze.

    • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 13:23 #

      Brianne, yahoo for amazing places! The conference was definitely worth it, as were the eats and vistas. Lychees and I don’t get along that well, ever since I was given a huge can of them by a Frenchman while living in Montpellier, and then struggling to eat them all (but being continually grossed out).

      So, I totally didn’t know that paletas were in ages ago, I feel like such an out-of-the-loop phony:) But that’s okay, what I had here was a special experience that as you now know I had no prior knowledge of. I think cranberry would be amazing. If you had pumpkin with caramel like my fella had, you would taste pure bliss !

  3. Julia @ Mélanger 2011/11/10 at 21:38 #

    I went to Hawaii almost 10 years ago, and I don’t remember any food apart from an abundance of Spam and sushi. (Even McDonalds included Spam on the breakfast menu AND I saw Spam sushi???!!!) I never saw those popsicles anywhere. The flavours look fantastic. Maybe I need to take another trip to this little place. It’s funny, I often think of Hawaii and not too far away – a 12 hour flight is nothing when you live in Australia! :)

    • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 13:27 #

      Julia, I saw the Spam on the McDonald’s menu, hah. I actually grabbed breakfast there one morning (gross, I know), but failed to see the Spam menu until a day or two later. I would definitely have had Spam and eggs.

      I started to understand what Australians must go through when planning flights around the world, and I definitely felt closer than ever, by 5,100 miles. to the Aussie bloggers whose writing I adore so much (oop, you’re one of them).

      The popsicles were the most amazing, unexpected treat. And so great that they locally and/or organically source all of their ingredients !

  4. Victoria (District Chocoholic) 2011/11/10 at 22:17 #

    OMG MADRE. LOVE.

    • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 13:28 #

      Victoria: Just wait for it! It’ll be sublime, all thanks to you:)

  5. sarah 2011/11/11 at 11:41 #

    Wow! That is an earful of onopop making wisdom. So, when are you going to get in the lab and work out the perfect onopop?
    Avocado Honey Lime, and Kula Strawberry Maui Goat Cheese – yes please!

    What a fun trip! My dad took a trip to Honolulu and failed to mention farmers markets, spam and delicious fruity frozen treats. I suppose that’s to be expected from a guy who could live off of chipped beef on toast.

    • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 14:27 #

      sarah: I know! I had originally asked if OnoPops would mind sharing a recipe, but Josh provided me with all that terrific insight. I thought about trying to boil it down, but given that I’m not paleta expert, I figured sharing his thoughts verbatim would be best for everyone. I will work out the perfect pop just as soon as I buy myself some molds…:)

      This was a terrific trip. I’ve been inordinately stressed due to all the work I’ve been trying to accomplish, but the trip, despite being somewhat stressful on its own as it was work-based, provided me with a terrific sense of relaxation, and a breath of fresh (Spam-filled) air. I still can’t believe I was in Hawaii !

      Oh, and guess what? I saw huuuuuuuge tubs of chipped beef for sale while I was there;)

  6. Hannah 2011/11/11 at 23:21 #

    Oh, by the time I got to the end of this post I’d forgotten all the things I wanted to respond to at the beginning, because there’s just. too. much. magnificence. Thank you, Emma! Yay for travel and happiness and food and dingyness-that-highlights-the-sparklier-things and beautiful new sights :)

    After going back… the trees in buildings make me simultaneously giggle and feel a bit sad for the trees. Spam is something I think I’ve only ever had in fried rice once? Well done on avoiding the longans. I love lychees, but to me longans taste like a weird blend of lychees and milk, so…. yes. Stick to the chocolate, my darling!

    I WANT GOATS CHEESE ICE CREAM! And anything called “Crackseed”, because that’s hilarious. Oh! I hope my travelling next year pans out!!

    • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 14:30 #

      No, I want goat’s cheese ice cream! I hope your traveling pans out too, Crackseed.

      I would say that there is just enough magnificence, rather than too much, but to each their own:) Yay for travel, yay for sparkle/dingy, yar for pirates (realized I’d mistyped yay, decided to go with it), yay for dim sum, and yay for reporting back on what I saw. It keeps the memories fresh, and close to my heart:)

      I also had Spam in fried rice while I was in Hawaii. I tried it in as many ways as I could find it, woop woop. Nast@ longans.

      • Hannah 2011/11/14 at 16:52 #

        Oh god I’m so tired. I read this thinking “what? Why am I getting my travelling pans out? I dont’ even have travelling pans? WHERE CAN I GET TRAVELLING PANS?!”

        I don’t want this conference tomorrow! Don’t want! I do want yar-ing pirates, though. Oh Emma, I’m so very tired, and I haven’t even pulled the 7:30am-10:30pm conference day yet.

        Yours lovingly,
        Crackseed.

        • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 17:05 #

          I’m so tired! I read it and wondered why I would make such a silly typing error, and why you would pretend that I had, and then pretend that I hadn’t!

          Yar yar yarrrgh. I played in the pit of Pirates of Penzance last spring, and there were a hell of a lot of pirates stomping above my head. Dust and small wood chips fell onto my eyebrows regularly. I felt safe.

          Good luck not falling asleep through conference day. I wish you the best, and wish myself a good long sleep to get me back on track. Oh wait, can I write thirty pages of work tonight? Who knows, but I sure hope so, or maybe I won’t graduate!

          xo Crackseed.

          • Hannah 2011/11/14 at 17:13 #

            If you believe you are safe, you are. Thus goes the wisdom of the ages.

            I’m very well acquainted, too, with matters mathematical
            I understand equations, both the simple and quadratical
            About binomial theorem I’m teeming with a lot o’ news
            With many cheerful facts about the square of the hypotenuse!

            The above is designed to help galvanise you on your way to 30 pages of glory. I have faith in you, fellow Crackseed! Together, we shall sleep and then achieve greatness! Except, of course, it’s 9:13am here, so no sleepy sleepy for about another 15 hours.

            • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 17:20 #

              This is the most magnificent sonnet poem thingjig that has ever graced the walls of this fine institution. Thus goes the smile on my face.

              Perhaps I should work ‘crackseed’ into my thesis somewhere. Talk about it in technical terms, you know. ‘The residuals scatter about heteroscedastically, but in a bit more crackseed manner than anticipated.’ Go go gadget/greatness!

              • Hannah 2011/11/14 at 17:29 #

                OMG YOUR THESIS IS ABOUT DINOSAURS?! I’ve always like Heteroscedasticallys!

                P.S. High five for blending Gilbert and Sullivan with Inspector Gadget!

  7. Silvia 2011/11/12 at 14:29 #

    That market looks great! And good for you that you remembered to take pictures… in moments like those I often forget!

    • emma schultz 2011/11/14 at 14:33 #

      Silvia, sometimes I worry that I’m not doing my best at living in the moment when I hide my face behind my (now moderately clean) lens for such a lengthy period of time. But I appreciate having these photos, for sure. And when food is involved, how can I not be living in the moment, right?:)

      It was a really lovely market. What I didn’t add was that they had a musician, strumming Hawaiian tunes on a guitar and serenading the market-goers with his soothing voice ! It was lovely.

  8. Adrian (Food Rehab) 2011/11/15 at 05:21 #

    I’d love to try the salted watermelon cream OnoPops! I’m actually thinkin of going to Hawaii next year, so might have to grab me a more a than dozen of these!!!

    • emma schultz 2011/11/16 at 11:10 #

      Adrian, salted watermelon cream sounds amazing to me right now, too. I felt inspired by their amazing creativity with flavors – and it didn’t hurt that the pops were delicious, either.

      If you end up making it to Hawaii, enjoy it; I sure did:) You can sit back on the beach with endless pops if you rent the OnoPops ice cream cart all to yourself for an afternoon !

  9. El 2011/11/15 at 10:06 #

    I’m glad you made it to the farmers market. It looks incredible.

    • emma schultz 2011/11/16 at 11:11 #

      El, I’m glad too. The scents, tastes, and images linger in my mind, although the chilly New England air is brisk around me this morning. It was incredible, and incredibly different from here, too !

  10. erin @ yummy supper 2011/11/16 at 11:27 #

    Emma, I cannot stop thinking of nutmeg fruit. I never knew there was a fruit…I need to thy those:)
    Thanks for sharing your travels and food treat with the rest of us. Your post was a nice little trip to Hawaii for me this morning;)
    -Erin

    • emma schultz 2011/11/16 at 14:18 #

      Erin, glad I was able to take you on a little trip. It’s quite a trip for me too, every time I look at the photos. “Was I really there? Did that happen?!”

      I never knew quite what nutmeg looked like either. So much to discover from markets !

  11. Charlotte Rose 2011/11/17 at 09:35 #

    As I sit here writing in Iowa where the temperatures are closer to 20, I am so jealous of you! I have yet to be to Hawaii but my parents might be taking me there this summer as a graduation present/one last family trip before I move away from the house forever! If I go, I will be sure to check out those Ono pops, especially the Salted Watermelon Cream and the Starfruit Lemongrass. I think also that I will just wander around the Farmer’s market in awe of all the beautiful, delicious looking fruit. Of course I will buy tons of fruit but not until after drooling all over.

    • emma schultz 2011/11/30 at 10:28 #

      Charlotte Rose, being three weeks removed from the trip now, I’m even jealous of myself:)

      I hope you get that graduation present – it sounds like the most fabulous present ever !

      Let me know if you end up going, I’d especially like to hear what you think of the OnoPops if you end up trying them. Maybe you could mail me some in a super-chilled package….? Okay, probably not;)

      I hope your semester isn’t getting too incredibly crazy on you !

  12. hungryandfrozen 2011/11/21 at 05:07 #

    I’ve wanted to go to Hawaii for so long, but your writing about the Onopops has sealed the deal entirely – I HAVE to go there now! And try at least…ten flavours. Hope the rest of your time there is/was awesome.

    • emma schultz 2011/11/30 at 10:31 #

      Laura, hah, deal sealed. I’m continually disappointed in myself for only having one popsicle. Who am I? What was wrong with me? Conference schmonference, I should have parked myself at that paleta stand, kicked up my feet, and tried everything my sticky hands could grab:)

  13. Simply Life 2011/11/25 at 19:35 #

    wow, so many gorgeous pics- what a great place!

    • emma schultz 2011/11/30 at 10:32 #

      Oh my gosh, I know! And what a photogenic landscape, huh? I merely opened the shutter to what was there:)

  14. Jessica 2012/01/03 at 21:41 #

    I am swooning over those pops. Wasn’t sure which I’d get until seeing that final sign pic. Lilikoi! I’m such a sucker for passion fruit. But I’d want to try pretty much all of them. Thanks for including all that info on making them!

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